WD40 does displace water quite effectively. Realistically you will need an Air Compressor to blow out the WD40 properly. I've always heard you should use something ammonia based because the ammonia helps "neutralize" the corrosive salts, but what you're saying is that they are hydrophilic and attract moisture.
So the ammonia thing is an internet myth? What about using sweets 7. I figure there is enough ammonia in there to neutralize just about any acid and then follow it up with some CLP?
The ammonia in Windex is more like denatured alcohol than ammonia. It really only helps with helping the product evaporate faster. True ammonia based products are great for removing copper fouling but can be very harmful on the bore over time if used improperly. Sweets are one of those products to use caution with and because if the risk I do NOT use it.
Wipe Out Bore Foam has the same cleaning power without the risk. Ammonia does nothing to help neutralize or flush out the salts. Water and only water based products will assist with Corrosive Salts.
At the range I disassembled the bolt and soaked it in Windex or WD40 heard this was ok to do. I then sprayed the WD40 down the barrel really good. I then ran some patches through it and took it right home. At home, I disassemble everything again, and sprayed everything down very good with Break Free Powder Blast.
It really seemed to blast everything away, get things clean, and it dries fast. I then use a brush, patches, cleaners, and oils to perform the normal detailed cleaning. Any recommendations for an AR that shoots corrosive ammo? More than likely your corrosion occurred because you introduced moisture before you could reliably flush out the salts.
The Windex was that moisture. Can this be used on all types of finishes such as nickel, stainless, and bluing? How about on black rifles such as an AR15? Is there any metal I should not use it on? Replies appreciated. I bought Break Free because so many of you recommend it. The snaplock was the forebearer of the flintlock. The difference is the frizzen. Keep in mind all of these weapons were smoothbore.
Held in the cap the hammer struck the cap, this caused the impact sensitive primer mixture to explode sending a flame into the chamber and igniting the charge. Caps were better than the flintlocks in the rain, had a shorter lock time time from trigger pull to the bullet leaving the barrel, and eliminated the pan priming sequence.
The fulminates where not discovered until and opened the way for the caplocks to dominate the battlefield and sporting weapons. While culmination of the caplock, rifling and Minnie ball the stage was set for the Crimean War and the America Civil War. The cap was the what make metallic cartridges possible. Leave this field empty.
This video ahows the effects of Corrosive Ammo after one month without cleaning: To learn more about the proper procedures for cleaning rifles exposed to corrosive ammo, we suggest an article by Paul Markel on Ammoland. Video Tip from EdLongrange.
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Varmint Pages. FREE Targets. Barrels that were shot out or rusted beyond recovery would sometimes get replaced back in ye olde days during the "prepare for World War III" rearsenaling in the Soviet factories, after World War II.
Fortunately, some of these crated and un-reissued rifles have made it over here. Why did they use black powder? Why did they use mercuric primers? Why did they use cordite? In hindsight there may be better stuff to use, you can't look at it through modern glasses. They cared that it went boom with every pull of the trigger and it did. Potassium chlorate primers flat out work and last a long time. A lot of us shoot stuff from the 40's and 50's no prob.
Corrosive primed ammo was still in full-scale production until recently because it extremely reliable. A little potential rusting was an easy tradeoff. As true today as it was back then. Plenty of firearms that shot corrosive ammo survive in great condition. Its not that hard to run some water down a rifle barrel.
I don't consider the ammo to be bad for the guns, Its more a matter of the maintenance habits of the user. When I hear corrosive ammo I think of quantity and not quality.
So what ever it takes to make the round go boom and fly out of a barrel. I shot some really horrible Yugo 7. Sure enough everyone of them fired though as true as can be. Just one of things and very true, nothing some water can't fix.
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