One to consider may I say is the Record especially the SS 2-part cap… an under-rated cracker with the crucible iron. I am unsure why it is that a No 3 is what I first grab to trim end grain. I grab it before the block plane. It seems better more often then not. I only seem to use the block plane if I cannot get at it with the No 3. Hey guys, I like the idea of the 3 being easier to push and I agree with Richard that an inconsistent stroke will produce less than perfect results.
I have huge grizzly hands and using a 4 has always caused discomfort. I went to my shop after reading this and gripped my 4 with the chokehold move and a lightbulb went off. Jesus wept! My pills. Very interesting post Richard. I have a Sargent equivalent to Stanley No 2 that is in a well battered condition. I have been thinking of selling it, but as both totes have been replaced and the front one looks like a modified cotton reel, no collector will want it.
Maybe I should re-harden the blade and give it another go? Great article sir! Keep up the great writing and videos…. Once it was running well, it quickly became a tool I reach for often. Are we going to create a 3 feeding frenzy on Ebay? Good that I already have mine! I love my number 3. A bit surprised at your comment on the flatness of diamond stones. An Atoma I bought many years ago, as my first diamond stone, turned out to be convex, a Trend I bought more recently has hollowed after several years use, and the cheaper 2 sided Axminster, bought a couple of years ago, has followed suit.
I like no. Not sure why but they just seem to suit. As far as diamond stones are concerned, check for flatness before you buy. Thanks Mike, I was referring to the cutting speed of diamond stones and not really the flatness. Three number threes… why not! Your shop is less crowded, your wallet is heavier, and you worry less about the next tool and more about working wood.
So this post may seem a little contrary to that point as I have just stated that I have 4 planes that all can do the same job. I find that having multiple smoothing plane options has made me a more efficient woodworker. Stopping to readjust a plane for a small task then adjusting it back to where you had it takes time and when you are in the heat of a project these adjustments get forgotten. On the converse, having multiple planes tuned differently means you can quickly reach for one when the situation arises and your results are better, more accurate, and achieved in less time.
The best news is that the other specially tuned versions wear very slowly so you set them up and they stay sharp for a long time. So, yes, maybe I have a plane problem that dovetails nicely with my saw problem. I prefer to think of it as I have a desire to be more efficient. Get on the fast track to the woodworking content you really like by joining my list and telling me what you most want to see in video, text, song, poetry, and performance art. Smoothing Plane Options. Hand Planing. Join My Mailing List Get on the fast track to the woodworking content you really like by joining my list and telling me what you most want to see in video, text, song, poetry, and performance art.
The molding plane, also known as a moulding plane, creates the shapes and contours found in wood molding and trim. This time-honored hand tool has a rich history in the creation of the ornate moldings found in early European cathedrals and other decorative interiors.
Often, more than one molding plane is necessary to create custom trim—a large curved plane may be used first to create a wide contour along the length of a trim board, followed by two or more smaller planes that cut grooves or rounded beads to give the trim a fancier look. Made from metal but lighter in weight than other metal planes, low-angle planes are shallower in depth and often come with thicker blades that are easy to adjust.
Authentic Stanley-Bailey planes are still in demand by collectors because Leonard Bailey—the man who designed the planes in the mids—was a master wood craftsman, and he created planes that made precise cuts and shaves. Stanley-Bailey planes came in various designs, including molding planes, joinery planes, and standard bench planes. A large knob and a curved back handle can make it more comfortable to use a heavy plane.
Small hand planes often come with only a single knob for controlling the plane, and some all-wood hand planes feature just a block of wood the user grasps while sliding the plane along the wood.
Round metal handles are acceptable, but polished wood handles absorb more vibration and impact, making them more comfortable to use. The following hand planes are meant for different jobs, and one or more of these will be a boon in your workshop whether you make furniture or cabinets. The blade on this classic plane is fully adjustable using a mallet, and the rosewood block-style case is smooth and fits comfortably in the palm of your hand.
This block-type plane is made from steel, and its high-quality blade adjusts with a thumb knob or removes for hand-sharpening when necessary. This mini but durable hand plane delivers clean cuts for sculpting wood and modeling or for other types of light woodworking.
The Stanley jack plane is made from iron castings, weighs in at a beefy 6-plus pounds, and comes with two handles for controlled planing. Its low-angle, one-piece base helps it glide over rough wood.
Wood craftsmen who fashion projects from raw lumber will find this hand plane a great option. Designed for the dedicated craftsman, the WoodRiver Bench Plane is a high-quality tool that can smooth both softwoods and hardwoods with ease.
Manufactured from high-quality steel and polished wood, the WoodRiver hand plane proves a good choice for shaving away high spots on large wood projects such as cedar chests or toy boxes, making it well suited for the woodworking artisan who takes pride in creating custom projects.
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