Last edited: Sep 13, If you have the ability to blast the rusted areas and remove rust, I would not waste time with Chassis Saver honestly. Now if you cannot blast, that is a different story. Apply 2 coats at 4. Click to expand Well if he applied that after sandblasting and it's rusting withing a year or two, that stuff is junk.
The only manufacturer I use is Tnemec. That can go over marginally prepared surfaces ie. NOT sandblasted, but if it is then ever better. If any of the old coating peeling or whatever just wire wheel that crap off and apply 2 coats of this over it. This will keep the coating from fading, you can choose any color you like. The only reason for this is epoxies will chalk and eventually fade over time if exposed to UV.
This are the results after a Prohesion test. Prohesion tests are basically a chemical and salt spray. Now realize this was blasted to an SP10, which is the best for immersion service, but even an SP6 will get you mad results. If you have any other questions feel free to ask! I've own a FZJ80 and 3 series. All but this last one I owned in the rust belt. Once a year I would wash the under carrage and take a can of rustoliuem spray any rust areas cover well and do the Same thing the next year.
Doing this I never had much rust year to year. Quick easy and kept my rigs looking like a SW rig. My present has always been a Nevada Hundy so almost no rust.
Got just a couple of discolored areas. Going by today for a can of rustoliuem to touch up. SWUtah said:. I believe it. The problem is we tend to let things go until they are really a problem. A couple of years back, I spent 20 hrs removing scale and as much rust from both my front and rear axles.
I didn't have warm enough weather at the time to apply some Eastwood product I had purchased, and ended up painting them with Tremclad using a brush. They looked very good for a very short time, but by spring they looked almost worst then when I started. I believe the paint would begin to flake off and then it would actually trap water and dirt accelerating the corrosion process.
Any clean, smooth bare steel must be roughened with 60 grit paper before coating with Chassis Saver. Never bead blast or use any blast media that is not coarse enough to remove metal and leave a profile or the surface will be too smooth for good adhesion.
UCP99 Gloss Black — As a primer or finish coat, Chassis Saver has become the industry standard for high performance protection on all truck and auto underbody surfaces including frames, floorboards, under fenders, engine compartments, trunk areas, fire walls, etc.
The 1 choice for fleet maintenance at hundreds of public works facilities, DOT maintenance shops, truck and fleet refinishing shops nationwide. Extensively used on snow and ice removal equipment saving thousands of dollars in costly repairs.
UCP Silver-Aluminum — Used as a primer under any colored industrial or automotive grade enamel topcoat or under Chassis Saver gloss or antique-satin black. Heavily filled with over two pounds per gallon of flake aluminum to help smooth and fill pits and deeper rust damage. Interleaving flake creates an incredibly dense barrier to prevent moisture permeation. Commonly used for marine barge and oil field maintenance. Great for industrial equipment, metal roofs, steel truck rims and to rejuvenate tired, rusted old chain link fence.
Cures to a silky smooth sheen. Floors can be coated with surface temps as low as 38 degrees F. Download Chassis Saver Technical Data Bulletin PDF Application Note: While Chassis Saver has incredible rust and corrosion resistance and can be used for all underbody applications without top coating, it is sensitive to UV light sun and its initial appearance will change over time.
New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. What Reducer for Chassis Saver. JC Daniel Promoted Users. I am almost ready to spray the frame of a truck I am working on and was wandering if any of you guys have sprayed chassis saver and if so what reducer did you use and tip size of gun?
I appreciate any advice! Why are you not using epoxy? Chassis Saver is a moisture cure urethane like POR15 and nowhere near as good as epoxy. I'm speaking from experience, and have seen what happens to the metal under MCU over time.
It's not pretty! I did tell the customer that I was going to epoxy the frame but he listened to some of his friends and said he wants chassis saver instead, My question is this now. The frame has been rid of all "loose rust"can epoxy be sprayed over the rust and seal it or does it have to be sandblasted? I really appreciate all the help I get from you guys, I try to put it into action but when the customer insist on something else I just tell them I make no slakes on their claim.
Of course it really needs to be clean of any rust, dirt, grease,etc. Adhesion is not good to a clean metal surface, and any moisture between it and the metal will accelerate the rust that is there. So if you have clean metal next to rust, it will let loose of the clean metal and let moisture underneath causing more rust where there was none before. I understand a customer insisting on something, but telling him you will not be responsible may not be good enough when his frame is rotten beyond repair.
He chose you to do the job, not his friends.
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